Steve's Insider Info

This is where we at Turkey Mountain Traders can take the time to give our clients and friends a glimpse into how we look at the art we sell.

Every month, we'll look at one topic in depth, and readers will learn about what technical aspects are important, how we separate the good from the great, and what makes something important culturally, historically and artistically.

This month...The Jay Evetts Collection of Navajo and Pueblo Silver Ornaments

Turkey Mountain Traders is proud to present an exhibit and sale of this seminal collection of antique American Indian silverwork.

For thirty-seven years, Jay Evetts has been one of the most respected and beloved figures in the world of antique American Indian art. Two generations of dealers, collectors and curators have relied on him for fine pieces and honest advice, especially in his chosen specialty of Navajo and Pueblo silverwork. His knowledge of Southwest Indian art and culture is vast, and his love for the people and their arts is unquestioned.

In the years since he began his career as an art dealer in 1971, he has handled tens of thousands of pieces. The ones closest to his heart, however, were the ornaments used by the Navajo as dress and blouse ornaments. Over the years, one piece at a time, he put together one of the finest collections ever assembled.

The bulk of the collection can be grouped under one of three types: “button” ornaments, dress ornaments and collar tabs. Of these, collar tabs (which always occur in pairs) make up the smallest part. They were sewn on to the collar of a velvet blouse or shirt, and were made as either straight silver bars (with or without turquoise settings) or, more commonly, as angled silver bars that usually (but not always) were set with turquoise. There were generally three or more sew loops soldered on to the back, and it was through these loops that the collar tabs were fastened to the garment.

The number of sew loops is the main defining element between “button” ornaments and dress ornaments. As a rule, “button” ornaments have only one sew loop on the back, usually directly in the center. Unlike true buttons, however, Navajo “buttons” were completely decorative rather than functional. In his classic 1940 text on Indian silverwork, Mera acknowledges this by saying, “the use of buttons as fasteners seems to have been almost negligible.” Old photos show Navajo men and women using these ornaments on bag straps, along the sleeves of garments, and even worn on a rawhide thong as a necklace; not once is there an example of them being used as true buttons. Most are circular and domed, and a great many have small turquoise settings at or around the center.

While the “button” ornaments tend to be round or oval, there is a much greater variety in the shape of dress ornaments. Most are of greater width than height, and all have two or more sew loops on the back. They range greatly in size, and are a good platform for turquoise settings because they are generally flatter than “button” ornaments. For the same reason, they also exhibit a greater variety of decorative techniques, including wirework appliqué, repousse, filework and chiselwork. Ornaments made entirely of wirework are even seen, though they are rare and normally small in size. Though sets were produced, it is quite rare to find a set of dress ornaments numbering more than two. Most exist as singles, especially those made in the pre-1920 era.

The sheer size of the collection precludes us picturing it in its entirety, but shown below is a representative selection that will give some indication of the breadth and variety of the collection. Included are jewelry pieces, such as earrings and necklaces, incorporating some of the ornaments from the collection. Only a few are pictured, but many more are available.

A number of the larger ornaments have custom-made metal stands for display, while smaller ones have been reversibly mounted on velvet boards for hanging (see below for a photo), which gives the viewer a new appreciation for them as true works of art. All ornaments in the collection can be displayed in several different ways, and we would be happy to help you decide which method would work best for you.

The collection will be available for viewing in Santa Fe starting in August. Those interested can contact us in Santa Fe at (602) 819-5143 for information. The collection will also be on view at the Whitehawk Invitational Antique Indian Art Show on August 18-20 at El Museo Cultural in Santa Fe. If a trip to Santa Fe is not in your summer plans, please email or call us at (480) 423-8777 and we can send selected photos and help you find your own special part of the Evetts Collection.

A rare and beautiful pair of "button" ornaments, circa 1900. Done with repousse and stampwork decoration, these are an uncommon shape. Very few pre-1920 pairs of ornaments are known to exist. (B 2007) Inquire/Order	A textbook example of a large and dramatic pair of "moccasin buttons", c. 1930s. Like many large pairs, this pair is a tour de force of silverwork. (B 4003) Inquire/Order	The only thing that differentiates this pair from more common conchos is the sew loop on the back of each ornament. Large ornaments in an oval shape are rare, and this is an exceptionally well-made pair from the 1930s. (B 4015) Inquire/Order

A pair of extremely rare wirework "button" ornaments, c. 1915. Ornaments made from hand-drawn ingot silver wire are very rare, because of the time and skill needed to fabricate these intricate creations. Most have a single turquoise or Hubbell Glass setting, even in the smallest examples. (B 2028) Inquire/Order	Set of 6 cast "button" ornaments, c. 1930s. These "spiders" were made in great numbers and differing sizes, but vary widely in age and quality. Almost all were set with turquoise, but only the best were done with substantial silver and stamped tips. (B 4005) Inquire/Order	A single "button" ornament, c. 1930. The care taken in the stampwork and repousse is clearly evident here. Unlike later ornaments, almost all of the pieces in the Evetts collection are ingot or coin silver rather than sheet silver. (B 4021) Inquire/Order

A large example of a "button" ornament made by pressing silver into a mold, circa 1930. The technique is sometimes called "swedging", and is usually used only in the production of ornaments and (rarely) bracelets. (B 4038) Inquire/Order	A group of small ornaments with turquoise, all circa 1925-40. Mounting groups of ornaments on small velvet-covered pads transforms them from ornament to wall art, and small ones can be mixed with larger examples in infinite patterns. (All ornaments can be combined and mounted as desired) Inquire/Order	A truly great example of a pair of angle collar tabs, c. 1930. The wirework applique on this pair is superlatively done. (CT 4002) Inquire/Order

Another pair of collar tabs, this a straight pair with heavy turquoise settings, c. 1940. (CT 4006) Inquire/Order	Dress ornaments are often long and thin, with two or three sew loops on the back. This is an extremely early (pre-1900) example, with five repousses and early stampwork for decoration. (D 0005) Inquire/Order	An extreme rarity--a set of three openwork dress ornaments with turquoise, c. 1915. Such finely wrought and old pieces very seldom become available. The shape of dress ornaments was ideally suited to this kind of finely detaile openwork, and this set is a perfect example of the art at its finest. (D 2015) Inquire/Order

Sandcast dress ornament with turquoise settings, c. 1935. Sandcast dress ornaments were uncommon, probably because of the length involved and the difficulty of carving a suitably long tufa mold. Many long dress ornaments were later converted into pins, though this one remains with only sew loops on the back. (D 4010) Inquire/Order	Dress ornaments, like "button" ornaments and collar tabs, were also sometimes produced in pairs. This excellent pair, made circa 1925-30, is similar to "button" ornaments of the same shape but larger and with two sew loops. (D 4013) Inquire/Order	This incredibly well-done dress ornament was made purely to highlight the wonderful turquoise. From the front, there is almost no silver visible, which is unusual for Navajo ornaments. Made circa 1925, this ornament is pictured on the back cover of Baxter's SOUTHWEST SILVER JEWELRY, along with other pieces from the collection. (D 4030) Inquire/Order

A great pair of "button" ornaments, c. 1930, that has been converted into an equally great pair of earrings. Some pairs of ornaments are perfectly suited for use as earrings, and have been converted to serve as such. (The Navajo themselves commonly converted ornaments for use as jewelry, or integrated them into existing pieces of jewelry.) A good selection of earrings is available. (E JE/06) Inquire/Order	Some of the small single ornaments have been combined with handmade silver chains to make artistic and beautiful necklaces. Since each ornament is unique, the necklaces themselves are quite unique and wonderful. (N JE/07) Inquire/Order	A few of the medium-sized single ornaments lent themselves perfectly to being hung as a pendant from a strand of silver beads, especially ones with nice turquoise settings. (N JE/03) Inquire/Order